Bike Don't Go, I Can't Go! :(

[Touko]

Ok here's another thought; fully charge your battery and see if bike starts. If it does check to see if battery is being charged by the alternator. If not there should be a two pronged connection leading from the alternator that you can stick the multimeter leads into and with the meter set to A/C it should read over 20. If it does then your voltage regulator is the culprit. What happens is the battery voltage gets so low that it begins having difficulty giving up enough elec. to the coils to make a spark and the bike starts to break down and then crap out altogether. Of course if the bike cranks over well now without charging then this is not likely to be the problem. Trying to think of anything that might help.


Touko

[bennybmn]

Just another thought... You've been looking at this thing for so long, that maybe it's time to take a step back and be a little methodical about it. Start at the battery, work your way thru the fuses, the harness in the headlight etc. Just go over EVERY connection to make sure something isn't loose or whatever. Sounds tedious, but it's better than waiting a week to even get it looked at.

[Speedblastr]

Quick charge test. set voltmeter to the 20 volt scale and connect it across battery terminals,with the engine running at around 2000 RPM measure battery voltage at the battery; battery voltage should be 14.5 volts/+ or - 0.5 volts .....above 15 volts faulty rectifier/regulator but first check the battery terminals are clean and tight,check frame and engine earth connections are clean and tight...battery fully charged,check that any fuse in the circuit is not blown or of the correct rating..(fuse#2ignition switch main feed )[30A]..(fuse#5 instruments , ignitor unit,starter relay)[15A]..(Main fuse #11)[30A].If it's below 14 volts two more series of tests will be needed then it could be the rectifier /regulator or the alternator if this is the problem. That will check those. As far as the Electronic Ignition:It's not the transistor type which uses the battery. Ours is the Digital electronic type CDI (Most of which do not require a battery. Uses a microcomputer to calculate perfect ignition timing. Most of these systems incorporate some kind of fail safe mechanism that kills the engine when timing ,engine speed,or fuel delivery goes off scale.If things are a little off the computer advances or retards the timing to suit the engine requirements.......... System Description: a)Pick-up coil...b)throttle position sensor...c)Igniter unit....d)Ignition HT coil. a) As each projection passes the coil a signal of low electricity is sent to the c)igniter unit [brain] evaluates the signals from a) pick-up coil which tells it engine speed,piston position,b)TPS sensor,which informs it of throttle valve position.From these signals the c) ignitor unit calculates the correct ignition timing ,and supplies the proper voltage to the d)HT coil . The basis for the calculations come from the pre-programmed ignition parameters within the igniter unit.[Brain] d)Ignition HT coil (Black box) is a low resistance primary winding is fitted to allow amore rapid coil action;this allows the coil to function at low and high engine speeds superbly.It functions on the 'wasted-spark' principle both plugs being fired twice for each engine cycle once on the compression stroke{ignition coil#1} and once on the exhaust stroke.{ignition coil#2}Good Luck. Fair well.

[Touko]

Mental note to self: Don't read Speeds tech posts without taking an excedrin first. LOL, Good info Speed and you have definetly studied hard.



Touko

[davidc]

Quick charge test. set voltmeter to the 20 volt scale and connect it across battery terminals,with the engine running at around 2000 RPM measure battery voltage at the battery; battery voltage should be 14.5 volts/+ or - 0.5 volts .....above 15 volts faulty rectifier/regulator but first check the battery terminals are clean and tight,check frame and engine earth connections are clean and tight...battery fully charged,check that any fuse in the circuit is not blown or of the correct rating..(fuse#2ignition switch main feed )[30A]..(fuse#5 instruments , ignitor unit,starter relay)[15A]..(Main fuse #11)[30A].If it's below 14 volts two more series of tests will be needed then it could be the rectifier /regulator or the alternator if this is the problem. That will check those. As far as the Electronic Ignition:It's not the transistor type which uses the battery. Ours is the Digital electronic type CDI (Most of which do not require a battery. Uses a microcomputer to calculate perfect ignition timing. Most of these systems incorporate some kind of fail safe mechanism that kills the engine when timing ,engine speed,or fuel delivery goes off scale.If things are a little off the computer advances or retards the timing to suit the engine requirements.......... System Description: a)Pick-up coil...b)throttle position sensor...c)Igniter unit....d)Ignition HT coil. a) As each projection passes the coil a signal of low electricity is sent to the c)igniter unit [brain] evaluates the signals from a) pick-up coil which tells it engine speed,piston position,b)TPS sensor,which informs it of throttle valve position.From these signals the c) ignitor unit calculates the correct ignition timing ,and supplies the proper voltage to the d)HT coil . The basis for the calculations come from the pre-programmed ignition parameters within the igniter unit.[Brain] d)Ignition HT coil (Black box) is a low resistance primary winding is fitted to allow amore rapid coil action;this allows the coil to function at low and high engine speeds superbly.It functions on the 'wasted-spark' principle both plugs being fired twice for each engine cycle once on the compression stroke{ignition coil#1} and once on the exhaust stroke.{ignition coil#2}Good Luck. Fair well.

Yup, checked all that, LOL! Thanks Speed. Turns out, it was out of gas. [I wish!]:)

[Speedblastr]

What about fail/safe mechanisms ? Kickstand ? ( Switches) Carb. Vacuum port rubber plugs ?
Uses a microcomputer to calculate perfect ignition timing. Most of these systems incorporate some kind of fail safe mechanism that kills the engine when timing ,engine speed,or fuel delivery goes off scale.If things are a little off the computer advances or retards the timing to suit the engine requirements........

[bennybmn]

GOOD POINT!! I know some America/Speedy guys had faulty kick stand switches...

[davidc]

The schematic shows the side stand switch sharing part of a circuit with the pickup coil. The bike does turn over, and I think it won't do that with the stand switch closed. But since I have no bike to ride around on, I may as well take that switch out of the circuit and see. Wouldn't that be a kick in the pants if the cause of the problem?

[bennybmn]

Yes it certainly would be a kick in the pants Keep us posted!