Ride report for May 22 (I’ll likely post this late today, May 23. Not to worry, all the wireless hot spots in this area are down this morning, apparently due to outages in phone lines regionally. I don’t doubt that yesterday’s tornados in Colorado and Nebraska had far-reaching effects.)
The view from my cabin window this morning dispelled my hope that the sound of constant rain during the night was just a thousand squirrels dancing on my roof. This is not Seattle rain, but more like a tropical downpour without the tropical part. Sighing, I checked my gear, which had been in front of a small heater all night, and found that both pairs of gloves were still soaked. For the first time in these 5 days, I was dispirited and reluctant to step back on my Bonneville. Oh, and I had to piss.
KOA campgrounds are nice. If others are like this one, they have a laundry, showers, and a little store with just about everything you need. They also have primitive cabins (meaning no toilet). I have to admit that once during the night I uh, well, um, hung it over the rail, so to speak. Relief and the shame of ingratitude all in one package. But in the morning light, with every RV window glaring at me, I had no choice but to navigate a minefield of mud puddles and heavy rain, in a still-semi-wet jacket, to relive myself. Too much information.
Ahh, better now. I dropped my wet-again jacket in front of the heater and pondered what to do about my wet gear, with most of my attention directed at the gloves. I simply wasn’t willing to ride in 40-degree pounding rain wearing wet gloves. So, even against conventional wisdom, and the advice I would give to others, I marched back to the office and threw them both in the dryer. There I sat, pulling them out every 15 minutes or so to make sure they hadn’t shrunk too much. After the first one-hour cycle, and several trips next door to banter with the staff, I found that instead of drying, they were merely warm and squishy. Screw it, in went 4 more quarters and back to the cabin I went to sort through the mess that my luggage had become during yesterday’s hurried excavations to find this glove, or that fleece, or this water bottle (How can you lose a fleece jacket!??).
Gloves. The thing about lined gloves, that I’d never experienced (or had forgotten) until this trip, is that wet gloves will not accept the intrusion of cold wet hands without a fight. At every rest stop, gas station, coffee shop, or store I had to repeat the ritual battle before getting underway. And several times, much to my amusement, I found that once I had successfully pulled, pushed tugged and twisted them on, I had forgotten to do something minor, like say putting on my helmet or pulling the keys out of my sleeve pocket.
Three dryer cycles later, I finished packing, loaded my bike, pulled on my still-wet gloves, and headed out in the pouring rain. Here’s the conversation I had with myself after pulling out onto the main road toward I-90…
“I’m hungry”
“Then get something out of your tank bag and eat it.”
“But there’s nothing but a half-eaten wet bag of mixed hippy hiking food. I want something substantial, I want FOOD!”
“How long has it been since the KOA?”
“Five minutes”
“Oh for crying out loud there’s a coffee shop. Stop there and quit your belly aching!”
Off came the gloves, in went an omelet, and on went the gloves.
“Okay, we’re on our way. What time is it?”
“It’s 2:00”
“(sigh) Whatever…”
Here's my route for today - a pathetic 165 miles...
Northeastern Wyoming is beautiful. In spite of my earlier report that I was farther east than I ever had been before, I realized I had been here before, years ago. I didn’t dare pull out my camera in the sideways rain, so I simply enjoyed the scenery. The rain did let up a few times, so at least I got to snap a few. Here’s one of the landscape typical of this area…
And the road goes ever on, even if you don’t cover much of it…
Near the South Dakota border I ran into an absolute torrent of rain and wind. I pulled over for gas, and no sooner did I pull under the canopy, it stopped. Looking east, I caught a hopeful glimpse of clear skies ahead. I asked the clerk what he thought of that. “I wouldn’t count on it,” he said…
Since I started late, and hadn’t covered much ground, I set a goal for at least the Rapid City, South Dakota. It looked like I might reach my goal, as I was climbing the long, gently winding road and high elevation that signal the approach to the Badlands, Devil’s Tower, and Mount Rushmore. About 30 miles from the border, the gods themselves seemed determined to stop me. As I climbed higher the rain let up a bit, but in an instant, violent winds hit me from all directions. I hadn’t yet experienced winds like this. I had to pull over several times, and slow to as low as 35 mph (on a 75 mph highway). As I neared Sundance, Wyoming, very near the South Dakota border, I ascended closer to the spiraling storm clouds above me until I was finally in them. No more fun tacking into the wind; this was not amusing, and since I was now in the clouds (thick fog) I couldn’t see very far in front of me – maybe 2 seconds at 40 mph. But I could see one of the ubiquitous “Deer – Next 10 miles” that appear every 8 miles.

It occurred to me at that moment that dread had been building within me for miles. I was minutes from the off-ramp to Sundance when I felt I had no choice but to pull over and collect my thoughts. I could pitch a tent somewhere, or I could very slowly inch my way to Sundance, and pull over to the shoulder to let the occasional truck go by. I decided to go slowly and stop at Sundance. Before I pulled back onto the road, I took this picture, looking off to my right…
P.S., It’s the morning of Friday, May 23rd. It’s actually beautiful outside. Blue sky peppered with white clouds, and a few dark and ominous ones. At the rate I’ve been going, my timeline for reaching Bennington by the 29th doesn’t seem as luxuriously long as it did when I started my trip. Six days is still enough time, but I’ve used up most of the morning sleeping in for needed rest, and filing this ride report (I prefer to do nothing else). I have to decide whether to seize the good weather and spend the day taking in the local sights, or press on. Being a tourist today will mean that I make it about 50 miles, and shorten my timeline to 5 days remaining. For the hardy biker, South Dakota to Vermont in 5 days would be a piece of cake, but I haven’t thus far proved that I can do the daily miles needed to get there on time, except in fair weather. What if this keeps up the entire rest of the way?
I haven’t made my decision, but whatever that decision is I’ll make it and not regret it. If I’m a tourist today, then I will just need to pick up the pace tomorrow. If I move through this beautiful area without stopping, then I will just return some other day (perhaps in a better season). I’ll know what to do when I get to Rapid City…